As we set out in the brisk air we were soon reminded of the altitude. The hike wound on with the trail sloping moderately as we gained elevation. There was little to see as the dense trees blocked views of the surrounding Rocky Mountains. As we went we were passed by some of the more intrepid groups, but not anyone that made us feel inadequate. We hiked for several miles. When tired we rested, when thirsty we drank, when hungry we ate. As the trees began to thin out, we could now pick out a summit to aim towards. To our right was Mount Massive and straight ahead was our goal...and it didn't seem so far off. Our hopes soared as we cleared the treeline and stomped towards the top.
These hopes were quickly dashed. We should have known better that what we saw was certainly not the top of the mountain. Common sense should have told us that the summit was much higher above the treeline than what we saw. Furthermore, we did actually have an altimeter that told us our inferior altitude. Finally we had read of a number of 'false summits' on the trail. False summits are one of the most soul-crushing events we have discovered in our burgeoning mountain climbing careers. They are points that look like the top when really they only obscure the true summit from view. As you come over the crest you see the next higher point you have to gain...whether this is the summit or not is not assured. Mount Elbert did this to us a number of times...each more frustrating than the next.
Grass gave way to a field of rocks just as we had encountered in New Mexico. Fortunately what we didn't encounter was a severe incline like what we had previously seen. This trail was much friendlier in that department and nowhere was there a point that the incline seemed a problem. What was becoming a problem was the ever increasing altitude. As we continued ever higher, each step became more and more of a chore. The cold mountain air burned in our lungs. Nobody was showing any sign of altitude sickness, just decreased performance as we neared the top of the Rocky Mountains.
The temperature had been steadily dropping and we saw some people donning their fleece layers. This seemed generally unnecessary to me as every step helped to keep my heart rate well elevated. Those other people were probably in far better shape. As we came to the final push there was a final obstacle to deal with. We found a legitimate though fairly small snow field that needed to be crossed. Nate and I had few problems in our expensive boots but Jared encountered some problems as the snow postholed to about our ankles. The snow was literally the very last thing between us and the top and suddenly we found ourselves looking down from the second highest point in the contiguous US.
The views of the Rocky Mountains can't really be described and photographs don't really do them justice either. If you want to see what I mean go climb the thing. We shot our tequila to the amazement of some of the more outdoorsy folks who seemed positive that it would cause our immediate demise. We spent a good while at the summit as we were generally too tired to do a whole lot more. The summit was well-populated with other people coming and going from both routes.
Eventually we were able to muster the strength and the will to perform our whole trek in reverse. On our two trips above the treeline we had discovered a problem inherent in the terrain. At normal altitudes, there are always trees and bushes behind which one could pee. This is not true above the treeline. Alongside a busy trail with no trees or bushes there is literally nowhere to gracefully pee without potentially offending passing female hikers. As we hiked down, Nate zoomed down the trail ahead of the rest of us.
A glance over my shoulder suggested one possible reason, there was a good-sized thunderstorm forming that was heading our direction. We had perhaps an hour until getting caught in this impending weather. I flashed back to the instructions about how not to be struck by lightning.....be below the treeline. Since the last thing we needed was for someone to die we picked up the pace a bit. Soon we met back up with Nate right at the treeline. He had just needed a tree to pee behind. However the storm was certainly gathering and we were still a good hour from any type of shelter beyond trees.
The rain started slowly and we scrambled in our packs for rain gear. This was not the first time as there was a brief rain in Oklahoma. We were in store for considerably more this time. Jared, who has a quirky aversion to being wet, decided the best course of action would be to run the remainder of the distance (which was considerable) back to the car. Nate and I continued hiking through the hearty rain. This rain was soon joined by some intimidating lightning. We were glad to be beneath trees that would protect us from death. The rain soon changed to small hail that pelted its way through the tree cover. Needless to say, this was not the most pleasant part of the trip but soon it seemed the worst of the storm had passed and we were left to finish the hike in relative dryness. Jared was at the car when we arrived having spent about 8 hours climbing to the top of Colorado.
We had noticed through our outings that so far every mountain had taken 8 hours to climb. Wheeler Peak, Guadalupe Peak, and Mount Elbert all took around 8 hours. This could only lead us to the conclusion that every mountain climb takes 8 hours. We returned to the Tennessee Pass Cafe for lunch and this time beers as well. The plan from this point had not actually been determined and over lunch we had to figure out what to do.
We had planned the opening of the trip in detail because it involved major mountains which can prove to be logistical problems. There was a need to hedge for bad weather and other contingencies like being so tired we needed to rest for a day. The remaining highpoints simply needed to be driven to. This did not call for such measures. With this in mind we devised two plans for future action:
Plan 1 - Proceed immediately to some small town in Wyoming within quick striking distance of Nebraska's highpoint. The following day would quickly eliminate Nebraska followed shortly by Kansas. The day would end in Neodeshea, Kansas where Nate's family was prepared to offer us accomodations.
Pros: Considerably less driving to accomplish on day 6
Cons: Trapped in a small Wyoming town for the evening with questionable lodging
Plan 2 - Proceed immediately to Denver where we would spend the night. The following day would involve large amounts of driving to accomplish the same tasks as plan 1.
Pros: Denver
Cons: Day 6 would be long
After debating these pros and cons we decided on plan 2. I was happy because I am a fan of Denver. I have now been there only thrice but had good experiences there each time. Lunch completed we hit I-70 and the great downhill towards Denver. On the way we booked a room at an extended stay chain hotel at a great promotional rate and soon had arrived in the first and only major city of our tour.
From previous and repeated experience, while in Denver eat at the Cafe Berlin great German food with imported beer and the stern German owner woman walking around keeping an imperious eye on the progress. We ate a fine dinner here and due to an early morning the next day called it a night.
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